Section Two; Kugti to Raape village - start at Chamba valley end at Lahual valley

Kugti Pass trek is one of the lesser known treks in Himachal, which makes it more exciting. This was out of the ordinary.

Trek gradient; Difficult
Terrain; Pass crossing at 5050 meteres

Day 1 Kugti to Duggi Caves (3350 metres)
After a small snack at the guest house we were finally ready to leave Kugti. The cook cum watchman suddenly was in good health and turned up in the morning on time to collect the money. The cost of the guesthouse was Rs. 350 per room per day.

Our guides were to start late. As per them they would catch up with us in no time 😐

Beautiful Budhil river. Trail on the right.

Our guides behind us we start at about 7.30 am. The first stop on our way was the Kelang temple (Kartikey Temple). Trail till the temple is pretty straight forward. There are couple of chai shops on the way to the temple, these are closer to village though. Little ahead the trail bifurcates towards Mani Mahesh. Mani Mahesh trail heads down, for Duggi caves follow the straight one. Initially the trail passes through the apple Orchards and potato fields. The Apples were always so close yet so far. Unable to reach a single one, we continue on our journey.

The trail is mix of rolling and climbing sections. The pine trees give way to sparse valley. The climb is continuous and though you come down a few times but still continue to gain height. Finally we were facing the climb to Kelang Temple. This is a steep climb. Altitude gain of about 550 feet. I was out of breath, slowly everyone made it to the temple. After catching our breath we took a wash and make our prayers at the temple. The temple complex is like any other hindu temple. Pink colour building, scores of bells and trishuls line up the temple as offerings to the god, caged statue of Kartikey, red flags hoisted all around.

There are couple of run of the mill shops. Selling prasad and other religious offerings, they also double up as snack shops. We were hungry after all the hard climbing and end up eating the mountain regular 'Maggi with Chai'.

Our guides were still missing. We decided not to wait for them and as we were ready to move forward someone spotted our guides. They decide to rest at the temple and we were done with our rest. Once again we left our guides behind and started to move ahead. From the kelang temple climb little more to the Mata Marala temple. Right outside the temple wall is the trail heading towards Duggi caves. At first the trail is lined up with pine trees and slowly it gave way to the meadows and big boulders.

Some climbing after the temple.

From the temple a 'Gaddi dog' started to walk with us. His fierce looks were hiding the playfulness of the big dog. We offered him couple of biscuits and he was our friend forever. We named him 'Bhaloo' (bear) and he seemed to respond to the name straight away. It is very common for a dog to follow you on the trail. Sometimes they are looking for food and sometimes for some company to walk to the next 'Dera'. These dogs can walk long distances. We once came across a dog that followed a trekking group from Manali to Bir. He in all true sense was a 'Vagabond' even hunted for his food on the way. Later we came to know he returned to Manali.

From Mata Marala temple to Duggi caves there are no major climbs. We walked mainly through meadows with big boulders climbing gradually. The area also has lot of cattle. Apparently villagers from Kugti leave them there for grazing. If the cow gets pregnant they take her back. From time to time someone from the village comes to check on them and feed the cows some salt as this they do not get it from the diet.

We continue our walk not to far from the river 'Budhil'. After about an hour of walk later we reached an open valley. One trail was heading straight and our gps showed that we take a right for Duggi caves. With our guides behind us we were lost for direction. Me, Amit and Nagaraj waited for rest of the group to join us. If we were to go by the gps, we were to cross a big stream. The time was around 12 pm and the stream had strong gushing water. The makeshift bridge of logs and stones was crumbling apart.

Naga contemplating - to go or not to go. Sanity prevailed and decided not to.

Finally the group joined us and Viren took the first steps and crossed the stream with difficulty to the other side. This was not looking right. We were not confident to cross it. Currents being strong we were thinking we would have to camp this side for the night and try n cross it early next morning. Sachin made the next move and after a struggle made it to the other side. Our guides finally joined us and made the observation that we camp for the night and cross the stream early morning. Crossing the stream again was not a good idea and Viren and Sachin decided to sleep the other side, for the night.

The place was vast open meadow and we found a place to camp not too far from the stream. This place is also used by trekking companies to camp when they operate there tours in summer months. There was a shelter too which was taken over by our guides. They cooked our first meal of the day. We also managed to pass some food to the other side of the stream.

Bhaloo posing. A relaxed evening in the meadow.

In the evening a passing 'Gaddi' stopped at our camp for food. He mentioned he spotted a mother brown bear with 2 cubs not far from the camp. We got excited that just maybe she will come our way and we can spot it. Rest of the evening was spent relaxing by the stream.

In the evening shepherds arrived with their livestock at the other side of the stream. This was a relief for Viren and Sachin. They would have company for the night.

This turned out to be the perfect day in the mountains.

Day 2 Duggi caves to Alyas (4200 metres Kugti Base camp)

We woke up at around 5 Am and were ready to cross the stream by 6 am. Started the day without breakfast or tea. Our guides were too lazy to wake up on time to cook for everyone. Water level was down and stream looked less dangerous in the morning. Finally our guides made themselves useful and dropped few rocks to reinstate the crumbling bridge. Everyone crossed one by one and we were on the other side. 'Bhalu' continued with his adventures with us and hopped, jumped out of the stream. It now feels that he has been with us on this trip since beginning.

One of the valleys in between.

United with the rest of the group we started to walk. A km ahead we walked past 'Duggi Caves'. We were on the trail climbing so did not make an effort to checkout the inside of the cave, outside there is hardly any place to camp. So if you prefer to sleep in your tent, camp at the meadow. More than the cave it is an empty space under a big boulder, open from one side.

Right after crossing the stream it is a steady climb to Alyas.

Walking on the edge of the mountain the next valley made itself visible. Lush green, sunlight making the dew glow vibrantly, this was a sight to behold. The trail takes you walking past moraines, boulders and juniper bushes.

It gets tricky once you reach a point where valley opens up and you can see numerous small streams coming together from various parts of the valley and heading towards 'Budhil river'. Here the trail turns sharp left, going up. The terrain is full of boulders so easy to loose the trail. Viren was walking ahead and missed it completely. He kept at the straight trail and walked down in the valley. The trail is marked on GPS as we later discovered.

On the trail - another climbing section.

We continue the climb. By now the hunger was unsettling everyone and we looked for a spot to cook our Brunch. Picked up some wood whatever we could find as this place is above tree line and finding wood is extremely difficult. Our guides also used Juniper bushes for the fire.

Relaxing by the small stream we were perched higher on the mountain and nature was playing wonders with clouds and mountains. This place feels like the adobe of the world.

After much needed wonderfully hot food later, we were ready to start the trek again. The climb straight ahead was steep. The last of the difficult climbs today. After crossing couple of the mounds we found ourselves in the open grassland of Alyas.

Photo session time - while cooking was being done.

The wonder world in itself. Alyas is a meadow with high mountains on both the sides. It is strewn with flowers amongst the carpet grass. The trail passes through the small hillocks on the left side of the meadow. The walk is pretty easy now and we reach the bottom of the towering 'Kugti pass'. The place for us to camp.

Open meadow offers numerous possibilities to camp. There is even a shelter perched up on the mountain. It has place to put up couple of tents. If you are looking for safety from wild animals this is good place to camp. Our guides camped there and we were based on the meadow.

Stunning Alyas.

We could'nt catch the view of 'Kugti Pass' as clouds were low. We get busy setting up our camp and our guides cook us early dinner. By sun down it was getting really cold and we all decide to head to our tents for warmth. 'Bhalu' was sleeping outside our tent and Amit was about to get in when suddenly he noticed Bhalu was up and looking straight ahead very attentively. Couple of seconds later he growled slightly. Amit looked in the direction 'Bhalu' was looking at and noticed an animal walking down from the mountain on the right. He soon realised it was a brown bear and alerted everyone to come out and spot the magnificent animal in its home.

Setting up the camp.

This was a perfect place to spot the bear. Tree less terrain gave us the clear view. By now 'Bhalu the dog' had become aggressive and started to run n chase the bear away. We also made a lot of noise to get the attention of bear in order to let it know we are around. Bear noticed all the commotion, stood up on its hind legs to get the better understanding of the situation. 'The dog Bhalu' chasing it, bear ran all the way up the mountain on the left.

Oh can't believe our luck! What an end to another wonderful day in the mountains!

Day 3 Alyas to Kodlu temple (Kugti pass crossing 5050 metres)

Finally the day has arrived. We all have been waiting for. Our highest and toughest pass. Heard a lot from locals about the pass. We got stories that there have been people who took 11-12 just to climb to the top and they reached base camp by late night. We do not take nature easy and always like to take the safest way out. But local folklore are always interesting pieces of information.

Early morning start. This is me with the heart of guiding light :) Picture courtesy; Nagaraj

Our plan was to start at 4 am. We would try n cross the pass before 12 pm. Generally cloud development leads to the cover of the mountain and situation can overdevelop into a storm in no time at 5000 metres.

So me and Amit wake up, give regular wake up call to everyone. Naga was up packing his things all ready for today's adventure. Now our guides too have been added in the list to be woken up by us. The day light was still away and it started to drizzle. Packed our things waited for everybody to finish. Due to darkness we could not see the clouds and we were unable to access the conditions. We decide to carry on and hope for the best. Though now we feel it would have been good to start right at first light of the day, it gives you a chance to access weather.

The first climb is up the moraine mound by the stream. Rocky and steep. Our headlights were our guiding lights for now. The morning was super cold and gloves are required. This trail is marked on the gps. We asked our guides if we would find water on the way and they spoke about Chor Nala after the first climb from where we can refill. After that there is no more water till the time you come down the other side. We carried less water thinking we would refill. First we climbed not from the trail as our guides could not locate the correct one, second they could not point the nala to us and now we did not have enough water on us. Guide business was turning out to be a nightmare.

The only pit stop on the way. Just to gather everyone.

By now the day started to break and the drizzle was still on and we could see the stratus cloud cover over our head. The clouds were not low and we could clearly see the mountain ahead and valley behind us.

Our guides mentioned that we would not be able to take the regular snow covered glacier trail as the snow has caved in. We would have to climb higher to cross the pass. The climbs are continuous and steep. You need to divide this climb in sections. First two are steep moraines. Navigating on the mountain ridge, you end up coming on a wide section of moraine. Well it gave me a feeling we are close to the pass. How wrong was I. Little break later the climb starts again. Criss cross amongst the boulders and we were walking over a muddy section. The rain had picked up speed by now and we were hoping we do not get stuck in storm. The mud was slipping, 2 steps taken one step down. This was double the effort and very slow movement.

We still had half the distance to cover and now we started to hear thunder. This was not looking good anymore. The ideal way to tackle this was to come down and try n cross tomorrow. But we did not. The good thing was we were able to maintain a steady pace without taking breaks.

One of the view on the way. Better live than in picture.

The climb continued on the ridge and finally we reached a point from where we could walk diagonally towards the pass. This was tricky as it is a narrow trail to keep just one foot at a time over small loose moraine slipping under the foot. This trail connected to the pass ridge. No more trail just big stones to climb up n down. Super scary, one wrong step would hurt badly. Started to get a feeling if we were being taken through the right way at all. So far no one has shown signs of 'AMS' acute mountain sickness but 2 steps before the pass I started to develop heavy breathing. I was unable to climb those steps asked our guide to come n help me and he in turn sends Viren to help. Who helps pull me up and even carry my bag. A small packet of 'Kapoor' helps to improve my condition. Sniffing it gives relief from AMS.

So I made it to the top. Rain gave way to snowfall. I was one of the first ones to reach and was super cold as was not dressed for the unexpected snowfall. I had to wait for everyone to reach the top before we start our descent. Wet and shivering uncontrollably I was unable to move a muscle to get my jacket out. Amit made it to the top and helped me with the jacket. That got me moving a little. Waited for the rest of the gang to join n started the descent.

Just to give an idea on the type of terrain and gradient. Pic by Nagaraj

So we clocked 4 hours and climbed the Kugti pass. Very happy!

We barely made our prayers at the Kugti jyot (Jyot - pass in himachal). There are temples to mark every pass/ Jyot goddess, to make a prayer to let you pass safe.

Little did we realise what a daunting task coming down would be. Moraines Moraines everywhere lose, big, small.....slipping under the feet taking you down with it. This was slow and tedious task. Amit developed a pain in his feet and was unable to walk properly.

We had not eaten anything since morning and our guides were conspiring to take us to Raape village today itself. They were not wiling to slow down for food or directions. This was not the plan, but they wanted to get rid of us asap. We had not eaten since morning and after the hard walk now finally me and Amit decide to stop to eat. We were carrying previous days roti and some dry nutella nuggets which seemed heavenly at that moment. The mountains opposite to us were battered by rock falls, giving us reason to try to walk fast clear off the lose rocks and sand.

Moraine mountain. Sorry no better picture. Today was hard and everyone kept their cameras inside.

Moraine mountain comes down to a big glacier. Spread maybe about a km was another mind boggling experience. Crevasses of blue ice, small streams running down the glacier made for a much better terrain to walk. After the glacier the terrain again turns into moraines, just not ready to let you pass so easy. After a steep downhill of the moraine mountain we could see the valley ahead and Kodlu temple. From here the walk is up gentle hills. Trail runs over the top of the hills and finally we could pick up some pace. Amit kept struggling with his foot. Everyone was ahead of us by now.

The walk over the hills lasts for about couple of kilometres and after crossing a small stream the trail takes you above a grassy ridge. We finally made it. There is small shelter used by the shepards here and we decide to camp here for the night. Kodlu temple was below us by the stream.

Lahual valley is completely different to Chamba. Where Chamba is lush green with carpet grass, valleys full of flowers, Lahual is stark and barren beauty.

Our guides kept pushing to move ahead to Raape saying its just another couple of hours of walk. Even coaxed couple of people of the group into walking but we were having it no other way. They even said they do not have food for us either. But we were done for the day.

We were hungry and tired. They finally made us maggi and chai which finally gave us some energy. There were couple of Shepard groups parked at the shelter waiting for weather to improve to cross. We joined them for few games of cards and evening was spent relaxing.

Here we met with another group of trekkers. Camping at Kodlu tonight and would try and ascend Kugti tomorrow. After a small chat they decide to move ahead and camp for the night.

Resting place amongst the mountain friends.

Our guides decide to leave early next day. As usual we were left to fend for ourselves with food. We were not in a mood to go early, wanted to sleep little longer. The walk was small and we had enough time.

The shepherds arranged for some chicken for everyone for the night and some staple dal with rice.

We found a place to camp just below the shelter.

A difficult but rewarding day.

Day 4 Kodlu temple to Raape village onwards to Keylong

Slept well last night. Woke up to the sounds of goats and sheep all around us. Bhalu the dog, has apparently joined the Shepard group and had left with the flock. He found his friends and he was happy to join them. Our guides had left early. The Shepards at the shelter gave us morning tea. They asked us for some medicines and we offered them what we had. We can replenish in Keylong.

For breakfast we relied on Snickers and nuts. Packed our stuff and started to walk at about 8 am. The walk was rolling on grassy terrain for about couple of kilometres and then moraines comes in and downhill from there till you reach a point where there is a construction of a canal. Here it is gradual on concrete canal and then steep downhill towards Raape.

Beautiful day to cross the pass. Kugti pass on the extreme left.

Once down make your way around the canal and from here trail leads to the road.

Sometime into the walk and you can start to get the view of the valley ahead. Marked by homes of Raape village, the roads and civilisation coming closer with every step. Looking behind trying to see Kugti pass we realise what a beautiful day it is to cross the pass. I was envious of the other group. But then suddenly we see the boys coming back. Amit stopped to chat with them and one of them said that they did not wake on time to start the trek. WHAT....really ....... I could not believe it.

They had a foreigner friend who left on his own as nobody else woke up on time. LOL

They could move faster than us though while coming down. Little ahead we caught up with our group and they had a different story to tell. The boys had a fight as they were ill equipped with gear. They had 20 degrees sleeping bags and not right clothing for high mountain climbing or stay. There plan was to do few passes but they could not accomplish none. And as their vacation is getting over so they need to head back now.

Sorry but we had few laughs on there misfortune though.

Moraines more moraines...notice the road and dots of houses ahead....

Entering Raape village our plan was to find the Dhaba that our glorious guides had mentioned. There is none. Amit asked for directions to go towards the highway and someone said there is place to eat some snacks on the way to highway. After crossing the iron bridge on the river Chandrabhaga, we could find the shop on the left. Clean shop stocked with biscuits, Maggi and few other knick knacks. Finally we could order some eggs and tea.

Checked with the shop guy on bus connection to Keylong and he advised to walk further couple of kilometres to the highway and that we will have to wait for bus. After gorging on eggs and tea, we started to walk towards the highway. Reached the point where the road from Raape connects to the highway. There is no bus stop sign but it will stop by show of hand. There were few other people and couple of boys from the other trekkers group waiting at the highway. A local person at the house opposite mentioned bus would come in the evening now. We were little worried as did not want to spend the whole afternoon on the road.

Waiting for the transport. pic by Naga

Nagaraj suggested walking on the road and going to Tundi which was 17 kms ahead. We are never excited about walking on the road. Just cannot do it.

We suggested taking a lift to Tundi or Keylong if we are lucky. Everyone agreed for a change!

We managed the lift in a truck designed to carry concrete material. We stopped the truck everybody hopped in. When I say everybody, people waiting for the bus and the boys from the other group. Truck driver was happy to accommodate everyone.

This was quiet enthralling in the beginning but slowly fearlingly dizzying. Able to feel the smallest of pothole to every turn in your stomach. Nothing to hold on to, no reasonable way to sit as you might hurt your spine due to the jumps, the truck was able to provide. The driver was not helping the cause either. Driving like a maniac on narrow winding roads, this was one roller coaster ride.

Passing through smaller villages we noticed the big houses. Biggest that we have ever seen in any mountain place. Reminded us of European style houses with lots of windows and lots of rooms for sure. The valleys were full of cauliflower, cabbage and apple plantation. Using lots of fertilisers and chemicals, farmers here are able to grow vegetables here which was not possible some years back. Not realising the long term effects on themselves or the surrounding areas. Anyways this discussion for some other time. For now we managed to reach Tandi without any injuries. This for sure was more dangerous than what we had experienced before.

Truck menace. Pic by Naga

Tandi is small town on the highway to Leh. This is the place where 2 rivers Chandra and Bhaga conflux to become 'Chandrabhaga'. I guess this is also the final stop for petrol if you are heading towards Leh.

Our truck stopped here and we got down and started to walk towards the bus stop, when we saw the bus to Keylong. By show of hand bus stopped in the middle of the highway and we were happy to get inside for the final leg of today's journey. The fare from Tandi to Keylong was around Rs. 7 per person. Distance about 10 kms. Our country is sooo cheap when it comes to transport. We were once asked to pay Rs. 1500 per person in a bus for a distance of 40 kms in Norway. Not to mention we did not take it.

For our stay in Keylong our friend had spoken to someone to arrange some cheap place to stay. But after speaking to him, he told us about a mela going on in Keylong on the occasion of 15th Aug. Keylong was packed and there were lots of people. He offered to give us accommodation at Jispa. But we needed to be in the town for ATM, medicines and few other knick knacks that we had to do.

We decide to look for a place on our own.

Due to this mela which was happening in the main market area of Keylong, hotel rates had been increased. Strange enough nobody was staying in the hotel though. The mela was full of the labours who work in Ladakh during summer months and were on a holiday due to independence day. They cannot afford to stay at the hotels for sure. There is nobody else visiting the mela. No tourists for sure. Hotel owners were trying to take advantage of the situation.

Sunset at Keylong.

Keylong is a dusty town which is used by tourists as pit stop on the way to Leh. There is nothing much to do here. Restaurants serve bad food, hotels are overpriced and roads really bad. There are few ATM'S.

Me and Amit head out looking for hotels and managed to find a clean room with attached toilet for Rs. 1000 very close to the bus stop. Nagaraj managed for find one for Rs. 900. Rest of the gang managed to find a friend who helped them with one room. So they moved there.

We were done for the day, ate the hotel's restaurant and slept early.

Day 5 and 6 Rest Days in Keylong

As usual the rest days are dedicated to relaxing, washing and replenishing things for ahead. Days were spent doing just that. Visited the much hyped Mela which turned out to be nothing more than run of the mill small town melas. Stalls full of Chinese made cheap plastic things and horrible tasting samosas and jalebis. There was a pandal for cultural program which played non synced music over the loudspeakers till late in the night. Out of rhythm singers would come in between to make matters worse. So the mela is a strong no.

Viren's plan was to leave from here as he had to attend his college. So we bid farewell to him. But we also started to notice the change of attitudes in rest of the group as well. Nagaraj has lot going on at home and the rest 3 were looking really tired and non excited about the journey ahead. Sachin also developed some muscle pain in his leg and Amit was struggling with the foot.

We decide to visit the Tibetan herbal medicine doctor, who came with good recommendations. The old doctor helped with his diagnosis. Amit started to feel better and Sachin's condition also improved. But finally we got to hear what we had been suspecting for long. Half the group was done walking and did not wish to continue. We tried to motivate them but it was a lost battle. I won't lie it made me happy, no waking up people in the morning, freedom to plan and it is always a task to sort out things for a bigger group when you are on a self sustained journey. Smaller number easier to sustain.

So now it was me, Amit and Nagaraj. We planned our route for the next leg of journey, checked with a friend on food who had done this particular trek, got the information that food would not be a problem.

We gave the details of the itinerary to rest of the group, just in case they want to catch up.

Finally we were aching to start. The terrain, people, language everything is gonna change. Zanskar here we come!

Note about our guides ;
So we end up paying Rs. 17,000/- for 3 days for 3 people. Our initial discussion was for 4 + 1 day extra for weather. But they left in 3 days. This would be first time that they carried less weight than people they were guiding. Did we require 3 people? Absolutely not. Mostly the guides were behind us. So we were able to manage route finding by ourselves. The only time I feel they were of little help was at the top of Kugti pass. I can suggest just taking one person to show you the way if you are novice. At the top, Kugti is little tricky. The route is marked on the GPS though. Food can be worked out smartly by carrying things which are high in calories and less weight. Did they carry enough food for us ? Absolutely not. We relied more on the emergency food that we carried with us. So no more guide business for us. This was a good lesson learnt.

Keep an eye out for next section. Darcha to Padum; work in progress....

Few highlights;